I’ve always loved to swim. And yet it’s rare to find me in the water on a hot summer day. A picnic at the beach or a poolside BBQ has always posed a major dilemma: What do I wear? As a practicing Muslim woman who wears the hijab, I cover not just my head, but also my arms and legs, so bikinis and bathing suits have always been out of the question.
In 2004, the modest fashion industry came up with a solution: The burkini — a play on the words “burka” and bikini” — was invented by Australian Aheda Zanetti, but the garment didn’t gain mainstream attention until 2016, when some French cities banned the full-body beachwear, citing secular principles, hygiene, and safety concerns.
The idea that a piece of clothing could be seen as a threat is absurd to me. Why can’t women just wear whatever they want while enjoying a day in the sun? Frankly, my biggest problem with modest swimsuits is that most of them are just plain ugly. For years, I’ve opted for tights and a T-shirt over a swimsuit while vacationing, covering my hair with a swimming cap or wrapping my scarf into a turban. But my bootstrap burkinis have often left me feeling awkward and out of place next to the bathers in barely-there bikinis, not to mention how impractical swimming in a T-shirt is, with it constantly ballooning underwater.
While a trip to the tropics may be off the summer agenda because of COVID-19, I’m still hoping to hit up my friend’s backyard pool, or maybe even score an invite to a cottage by the lake, so I set out to find a modest swimsuit that I didn’t hate. I tested out four brands for style, comfort, and price — and here’s what I found.
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Coolibar Swim Shirt, Swim Hijab & Capris
THE SUIT: This Minnesota-based brand’s long-sleeved swim line is made for sun protection, but after learning many of their customers were Muslim women, the 20-year-old company added a swim hijab to their line last year. The swim shirt and capris I picked out were reminiscent of the tights and surf shirts I graduated to after decades of swimming in T-shirts, but Coolibar’s patented fabric that’s moisture-wicking, anti-microbial, and fast-drying is extremely lightweight and very easy to swim in (not to mention it offers UPF 50+ protection).
THE FIT: The zip-up neck is very comfortable and doesn’t feel restrictive, but it should be noted there is no support in the shirt, so you have to wear a sports bra or swimsuit underneath, and you may find the seam on some of the shirt designs lands in an awkward spot if you’re large-chested. This design falls mid-thigh, and the ruching on the sides helps keep the shirt from flipping up while swimming.
I opted for white, which was a tiny bit see-through, so if you’re a stickler for modesty, you might want to go with a darker colour — there are lots of great options, both plain and patterned. It’s pretty true to size and Coolibar also offer plus sizes. I went for the capri leggings, thinking they would still hit me ankle length since I’m 5’1, but they were actually mid-calf on me, so if you want full leg coverage, go for the longer options.
ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT: Where the brand falls short is with the swim hijab. While they get points for inclusivity, the giant piece of fabric comes with no fasteners or instructions for wrapping or tying, so unless you already know how to securely wrap a turban, good luck! As soon as it got wet, the weight of the water made the material slip back before I’d even finished swimming the length of the pool. If you’re looking to cover your head, skip the hijab and try the swim turban, or even the sailing hoodie. Also, note that you’ll have to pay about 5% duty on arrival in Canada — it was about $35 for me.
THE VERDICT: Overall, it’s a great athletic look and I could see myself wearing this for a surf lesson on a beach vacation or kayaking at the cottage, but it’s a bit on the pricey side for what it offers.
Prices in USD.
Coolibar Women’s Lawai Ruche Swim Shirt UPF 50+, $, available at Coolibar
Coolibar Women’s Tadleela Swim Hijab UPF 50+, $, available at Coolibar
Coolibar Women’s Deep Water Swim Capris UPF 50+, $, available at Coolibar
Sunmore Navy Blue Fully Covered Swimsuit
THE SUIT: Sunmore was just one of dozens of brands available on the popular modest fashion website Modanisa, which is based out of Turkey. Despite the large selection though, none of the traditional burkinis were really my taste. The option seemed to be either dark and drab colours, or bright and tacky patterns. I opted for a knee-length tunic in navy blue, with tights and a pull-on swim hijab.
THE FIT: Based on Sumore’s measurements, I went a size up from what I usually wear (they also offer plus sizes). I liked that this suit had bra padding, similar to the kind you would find in a traditional one-piece. I was also surprised when I jumped in the pool — it seemed like it was taking a moment for the water to penetrate the material, almost like a scuba suit would. The tag was in Turkish though, so I have no idea what it’s made of, but it felt pretty lightweight. The slip-on hijab was nice and snug, meaning no risk of it falling off while swimming, but the bunching around the neck made me wish it was attached to the top.
ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT: Because the tunic was long and flared out, it was easy to catch air while jumping in, and it ended up ballooning at the back like my T-shirts often would.
THE VERDICT: Functionally, this suite is decent, and the price is right, but fashion-wise, I likely would not pick this style out for myself.
Price in USD.
Sunmore Navy Blue Fully Covered Swimsuit, $, available at Modanisa
Lyra Sofia Full Swimsuit with Swim Cap
THE SUIT: I was most excited to try this one because of all the brands, Lyra seems to make the greatest attempt at being fashionable. The UK-based company, started by a lawyer in 2016, says its designs are inspired by classic Hollywood and Moroccan beachwear. Right off the bat, the colour palette offers softer hues and patterns than I’ve typically seen from burkinis. The Sofia, which I opted for in olive green, is a long-sleeved bodysuit with a front zipper, leggings, a separate skirt wrap, and an optional turban.
THE FIT: I loved the design, and the benefit of the bodysuit was there was no risk of riding up or ballooning. The leggings are pretty snug, but the wrap skirt is a welcome addition for modesty. (It’s more for fashion than for swimming in, so I chose to take it off while in the water since it was sliding around.) The turban is stylish, comfortable, and importantly, large enough to hold all my hair, though the elastic was a bit loose and I wished the band was adjustable somehow. Still, it was definitely nicer than a regular swimming cap.
ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT: My only problem with the suit was that it had no cups — I felt very exposed and ended up putting my own wired bikini top underneath for support.
THE VERDICT: If you’re body conscious, you might want to opt for one of Lyra’s more modest designs like the Asra, but l loved the fashion-forward look of this suit and would be excited to wear it on my next vacation. It’s also reasonably priced compared to its competitors.
Lyra SOFIA Olive Full Swimsuit with Swim Cap, $, available at Lyra
Nike Victory Full-Coverage Swimsuit
THE SUIT: Nike is the first mainstream brand to venture into the modest swimwear market, launching the Victory swimsuit earlier this year. At its face, it looks similar to most of the burkinis I’ve long avoided: a shapeless knee-length dress with a funny looking hood, over a pair of loose pants. It only comes in black, and at an eye-popping $820, all I could think was that it better transform me into Michael Phelps. The high-end suit is obviously aimed at professional athletes, but they also offer a ready-to-wear separates line in different colours at a slightly more palatable $250 (Unfortunately I was unable to try that version because of COVID-19 restrictions).
THE FIT: The pants are straight cut, as opposed to tapered, keeping the silhouette on the more-conservative side. Its glittery fish scale cuffs are the only real attempt at style. The top was a struggle to get on because of the bra that was attached to the tunic. Frankly, I felt pretty ridiculous in this suit — it looked more like I was ready to run a marathon than swim.
But what it lacks in fashion, it makes up for in performance. The thumb loops and tight cuffs allowed everything to stay firmly in place underwater. Surprisingly, despite the loose material, there was absolutely no ballooning, and the fabric almost seemed to repel water. I could see the beads of moisture rolling off as I exited the pool, which helped keep the material from clinging to my body — a definite point in the modesty column. As funny as the hood looked, there was no fear of it slipping off, and, because it was attached at the neck, water was less likely to get trapped between my ears and the fabric.
ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT: For the price, I wish they could have been a little more creative. Modest doesn’t have to be synonymous with boring.
THE VERDICT: While I personally didn’t love the style, it’s obvious that Nike’s suit is technically superior to any other burkini. Maybe if I was training in the water daily, I could be convinced to fork over the money. I’d be interested to see if their separates line is just as good — at least that version comes in more colours, and it’s a fraction of the cost. Warning, these may be hard to get your hands on; only a handful of stores across Canada carry the suit and stock may be affected by COVID-19.
PRICE IN USD.
Nike Victory Full-Coverage Swimsuit, $, available at Nike
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