The ready-to-wear shows are on at the moment, and in London the show everyone was waiting to see was designer Daniel Lee’s debut collection for Burberry.
Burberry has been in the hands of Italian designer Riccardo Tisci for the past few years and British-born Daniel Lee, coming off his immense success at Bottega Veneta, was charged with bringing the famed British fashion house back into relevance.
He had mentioned in previous interviews that he wanted to design clothes that made sense. Clothes that people would look at and think: “Oh yes, Burberry should have made one of those”. And he didn’t disappoint.
Cold, rainy weather was the overarching inspiration, and he sent out a collection that was beautiful, quirky, and functional. He sent out army green raincoats, waterproof hiking pants, faux fur wellies and reinvented the quintessential Burberry trench in a variety of colours and patterns.
Trench coats are always a good idea and have been since they were introduced as an alternative to the heavy woollen greatcoats worn by military officers in the First World War. They are the perfect trans-seasonal coat, and in climates like Australia’s, they may be the heaviest coat you’ll ever need. It has always been a firm favourite with the fashion crowd, and its sense of nonchalant chic cuts through the try-hard brigade in a nanosecond.
No matter what, they’re classics
This season more than ever, the street style girls and the fashion labels are boasting a new trench, from white gabardine through to denim or glossy patent or black leather. I’ve seen some fantastic trench coats in the stores already, from Witchery to Cue to Camilla and Marc (the latter has gorgeous versions in Meadow Green and Mustard).
While there are no rules about how to wear a trench, there are different styles within the category; generally double-breasted, they can come with or without storm flaps and epaulettes, and they can be midcalf, knee length or mid-thigh. Some are drapey and soft as butter, others stiffer and military in style. All are classics, and here are ways to wear them.
The long-line trench looks great worn open over a knit dress or roll-neck sweater and wide-tailored pants. A lot of the younger crowd are wearing very oversized beige trench coats open over bike shorts and motorcycle boots, a mix of athleisure and classic tailoring. Long trench coats also have a sense of casual seduction when thrown on over a long sparkly evening dress. Very French.
A mid-length trench looks best when it’s cut close to the body, but there should be enough room to move, both in the sleeves and across the back and shoulders, The neat silhouette has a chic retro vibe, especially when tightly belted. This coat looks great over a short sheath dress or paired with leggings, skinny jeans and ballet flats.
Hip-length trench coats in a soft, floppy fabric, like silk/nylon or a viscose blend, are a fab, relaxed easy office look, worn loosely belted over a tank top or T-shirt, sleeves pushed up and paired with a great pair of pants and ankle boots.
If you buy just one piece this season, a trench may be the best value. And if Sydney weather is anything to go by, with storm flaps.
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