Welcome to Out of Office, Who What Wear UK’s chic travel guide that provides you with the most stylish take on any destination by tapping creatives who know where to stay, what to eat and, importantly, which items to pack. This month, Who What Wear’s Insights Manager, Sophie Cookson, shares all her favourite places from a trip of a lifetime to Southern America, documenting where to eat, stay and much more. Keep scrolling to read her Out of Office guide to Nashville, New Orleans and Austin.
For three weeks this summer, I went on my dream holiday with my boyfriend to Southern America. We planned to drive between three states, experiencing the southern culture and hospitality. For as long as I can remember, I have been obsessed with Nashville for its country music (Thank you Dolly Parton, Shania Twain and Taylor Swift!) so it seemed like a natural place to start. Music and food were the focal points of the trip, searching high and low for authentic spots to eat and enjoy the music. This is what led us to New Orleans and Austin. Each spot was so unique in its own way and we found the best little gems in each state. I have listed out the best places to stay, where to eat, what to wear and what to do so that you can enjoy them as much as I did!
Nashville was the first stop on my southern American trip, and boy did it not disappoint. It had all the characteristics you’d expect from Tennessee; white cowboy hats and the most incredible cowboy boots (more on that later), country music can be heard from every bar and friendly locals. There’s a couple of areas within Nashville to visit, Broadway is a must. Here you will find Honkytonks with live music, cheap drinks and dancing. Nestled in between are boot shops where the cowboy boots were extraordinary, but expensive. I would recommend bringing your own cowboy boots with you if you already have them, but if not their options are incredible.
I stayed in two hotels during my time in Nashville, which helped me explore the city more. Even though they are relatively close to each other, it provided a different experience to the Music City. Bobby Hotel : Based Downtown, the Bobby hotel is a stone’s throw away from the hustle and bustle of historic Printer’s Alley and Broadway, but on a quiet street so you feel separated from the music when you want to. The rooms were spacious, and the boutique feel of the hotel made me feel right at home. They have a rotation of artwork up in the hotel, providing a platform to local and national artists. Based in the foyer was Zoe, their new dog ambassador from their adoption programme to train the puppies to become companions for US veterans. The Bobby is also a destination in its own right; the Rooftop Lounge has a pool with amazing views overlooking Downtown, and in the summer they host intimate live music events as part of their Backyard Sessions Series which shouldn’t be missed! Westin Hotel: Based in the Gulch, a trendy, upscale area on the other side of Broadway, the Westin Hotel is so close to great restaurants, shops and bars. The rooftop lounge, L27 is the perfect escape if you want to relax by the pool with an amazing view. They host a bi-monthly event L27 Lives over Summer with the best country stars on the roof. I found that their spa and fitness studio were the perfect way to unwind after a long day, and could melt into their heavenly bed.
Nashville is known for its cuisines; we were on a mission to find the best hot chicken spots and barbecue joints. Here is a list of the top places overall that you shouldn’t visit on your trip,. Audrey is the flagship restaurant of Sean Brock, located in East Nashville and has a focus on sustainable and organic produce to provide delicious small places at a high standard. We were sat in view of the chefs working in the kitchen, which added to the modern feel to the restaurant. I still think about the butter that came with the Appalachian bread; the cultured butter came as a ball, and once cut open you could see that it was filled with a sweet potato jam! Dress code is smart casual; I’d recommend fun trousers and a plain top. . Martins BBQ – its not just barbecue here, this is a whole night in itself. With live country music playing while you eat, and darts and other games for when you finished. I’d recommend getting a tray which comes with two sides. I shared spare ribs and sliced beef brisket and it was beyond delicious. Full disclaimer, the green beans are insanely good but they are cooked in fat and with bacon. If you are a vegetarian I would give it a miss. Boltons Famous Hot Chicken – If it’s good enough for Anthony Bourdain, it is certainly good enough for me. This was the best hot chicken that I had in Nashville, located in East Nashville, you either have to get a taxi or drive there yourself but it is worth the trip. When they say it’s hot, they mean it. I got some medium chicken tenders and it set my mouth on fire in the best way possible. Peg Leg Porker BBQ based in the Gulch, this casual establishment is popular with all the locals for obvious reasons. The meat is smoked daily and has won numerous awards. Stop off for a quick bite at any time of day. Taco Trucks: Our favourite taco truck was in East Nashville, called M&M Taqueria along Gallatin Pike but they are honestly all great. The Taco’s were so fresh and came with a delicious salsa.
I was so glad that I packed two pairs of cowboy boots for this part of my trip. I wore them almost exclusively every day and night, just switching out my clothes depending on where I was headed. I wanted to emulate the country girl style with a modern twist, without buying that much before the trip. You want to be comfortable as it’s so hot during the so wear your favourite bits. During the day, I was living in jorts, tank tops, or t-shirts and my trusty uniqlo bag. For the evenings, my inspiration was coastal cowgirl (think floaty white dresses or skirts). Do not bring heels to Nashville, they will stay in Nashville for the duration of your trip.
Rudys Jazz Bar – If you want a change from country music, head to Rudy’s Jazz Bar. It’s $20 a head for a night for live jazz with cocktails in a prohibition style. Try to get a seat near the front for a good view. Go to East Nashville – I made the mistake of deciding to walk, but you definitely need a car or to take a taxi. Either side of the road sporadically you’ll see dive bars and vintage shops. Expect higher prices for more limited edition pieces. Stop off at Black Shag Vintage for vintage band tees and then head over to Five Points to Rosemary and the Beauty Queen for a cocktail in a historic home full of locals. Boot Barn: If you are in the mood for some new cowboy boots, it’s got to be Boot Barn on Broadway, their selection is extensive and they usually have deals on.
Our next destination was New Orleans which had a completely different vibe compared to Nashville. It felt like it had a slower, deliberate pace which was a contrast to Downtown Nashville. This could have been because it was the middle of July, boasting a heat of 40 degrees so all the locals are inside and the tourists know better to visit. For us, it meant we spent our time slowly exploring the city, eating the delicacies and residing by the pool to cool off. In my opinion, unless it’s Mardi Gras I would avoid the French Quarter. It wasn’t what I was expecting, for cool bars, jazz venues and great restaurants I would stay in the Lower Garden District.
Based in the Lower Garden District of New Orleans, on the vibey Magazine Street, Hotel Saint Vincent is an interiors lover’s dream. The property has 20th century Italian design elements combined with opulent mid-century finishes such as 70’s Murano glass chandeliers and custom designed furniture. We stayed in the Mary Suite, which had the most beautiful wallpaper in the rooms, as well as a stand alone deep bath, however all the rooms are unique in their design. The pool was very calm and perfect after exploring the city. It also has two restaurants; San Lorenzo which features a coastal italian menu and Elizabeth Street cafe which is more casual including a vietnamese-style cafe menu and a french bakery. In the evening they have Chapel Club, a guest-only bar where they also host events like comedy nights and live singers.
New Orleans’ food culture is heavily influenced by Creole, Cajun and soul food, so we spent much of our time exploring different places trying all of the cuisines. Be on the lookout for Po-boys, Gumbo, Grits, all types of oysters and beignets. These were my favourite places that I went to: Gris-Gris Around the corner from the hotel, this restaurant was named New Orleans’ best new neighbourhood restaurant and it didn’t disappoint. One of my favourite was the Oyster BLT, which is not as it sounds. The oysters are fried, with smoked pork belly and a tomato jam! Also high on the list was the brown butter seared scallop, which shouldn’t be missed. Galatoire’s is rich in history; it was established in 1905 and is based in the middle of the French Quarter. This was the smartest restaurant we ate in during our trip away, with jackets required for men for the dinner service. The servers wore white blazers, were very attentive and the menu was extensive. Highlights for me were the rockefeller oysters, turtle soup and the duck crepe! Turkey And The Wolf (originally found through their mouthwatering instagram) is a must visit if you are in the area. You can’t go wrong with picking anything on the menu, but I can personally recommend the smoked ham or the fried bologna. Steins market and deli: another sandwich shop (you get my theme) also based in the Lower Garden District of New Orleans. It is a Jewish and Italian deli with an extensive selection of meats and cheeses. Be prepared to wait for your order, but it’s worth it! Clesi’s was our top choice to try the shrimp boi, but it was actually the wrong season for shrimp. Instead we opted for grab, prawns, sausage and corn. It is more filling you think, but you will walk away happy. The team that works there are lovely and they will show you exactly how to break the shells if you are a beginner. St Roch Market used to be a market of fresh produce, butchered items and fish. Now it’s a food hall, hosting a mix of local foods and drinks. Stop off by here for a selection of oysters and other treats.
New Orleans is another place where I would ditch the heels, unless you are going out to a nice restaurant in the evening. During the day, I was in sandals, shorts and a top for walking round the city and exploring the sites. In the evening I opted for linen dresses, trousers or shorts with a smarter top. The bars and restaurants I visited were more casual except for when I went to Galatoire’s so I dressed up with an elevated dress.
One of the highlights was renting bikes and cycling to City Park. It is a great way to get around the city and explore areas without having to get a taxi. As a little treat, once you get to City Park, stop off at Cafe Du Monde where you can get the famous beignets. While you are in New Orleans, you have to get a swamp tour for a guidance experience in the swamps and see some alligators. We went on a Jean Lafitte swamp tour, where you explore the swamps for two hours in a pontoon boat, and it’s only 40 minutes from the city. . Magazine Street (where the Saint Vincent Hotel is located) is 6 miles long, and has some of the best shops and restaurants in New Orleans. It has vintage stores, bakeries, bars, fine dining and runs through Uptown, Lower Garden District and then into downtown. Don’t miss the record shops for some vintage Blues and Jazz record. If you want a stroll and explore the amazing old houses, then walk down to The Garden District and Lower Garden District. Alternatively, you should take the New Orleans historic streetcars which still travel up St Charles Avenue. Stop off for drinks at Barrel Proof, Spotted Cat or the Chapel Club at the Hotel Saint Vincent.
Last, but definitely not least, on the tour was Austin. It was my favourite city that we visited, as it was really relaxed and had an LA vibe. I was back in my element with locals in cowboy boots and all the food you could muster. Austin is a huge city, and we were situated around SoCo (South Congress) and by Barton Springs. We walked around most places, but the city is loaded with rental bikes or ubers if you don’t have a car.
In our final week in America, we split our stay in Austin between 3 different hotels which provided us with unique experiences each time. They were based around South Congress and the Zilker Neighbourhood of South Austin, where the main street had a vibrant mix of shops, restaurants and cool bars. Austin Motel: On arrival, I knew my stay at the Austin Motel would be a special one. Once a 1930’s motel, it was updated in 2017 by hotelier Liz Lambert, and is an icon in SoCo for its neon (phallic) sign. It is modern but has stayed true to its original design. In the centre of the property is a kidney shaped pool, perfect for taking a quiet dip or visiting one of their events that they hold throughout the year. While I was there, they were hosting “Float Films” where they would play iconic films whilst sipping a drink and lying in an inflatable ring. The aesthetics of the hotel and rooms, and their Bodega is the perfect spot to feel like you’ve stepped back in time but with a modern twist. If you are looking to shop whilst in Austin, within a stone’s throw from the Austin Motel is Hermes, Reformation, Frame, Bygeorge, Ganni & Lululemon). Hotel San Jose: Less than 500 feet away from the Austin Motel, we didn’t move far for our next step. Despite it being such a close proximity to each other, we had a completely different experience. It was originally built in the 1930’s as a roadside hotel, Liz Lambert again renovated the space but whilst keeping the history. Each room is different but all of them have minimalist interiors and Malin & Mortiz beauty products in the bathrooms. They offer a multitude of items while you are there, including bike rentals, a lending library which includes CDs and DVDs, a typewriter and polaroid cameras. One of my favourite touches was nightly incense and a QR code to listen to a special spotify playlist for different moods. Despite being on a busy street, the hotel felt very secluded and spending time in the pool felt like an oasis of calm. Carpenter Hotel: The Carpenter Hotel is located in the Zilker neighbourhood, right next to the Barton Springs and close to downtown austin. Originally built in 1948, the structure of the interior and exterior has mainly remained the same. Within the hotel it has the Carpenter Coffee Bar and their onsite restaurant Carpenters Hall where their Executive Chef Thomas Malz has launched a new menu that showcases the seasonality and multicultural nature of central Texas in an authentic way. During the week, the space felt like a hub for young creatives to come to meet and work. Part of the Carpenter Hotel’s ethos is creating community-driven experiences by hosting workshops, live music, film screenings, vinyl nights, and local partnerships. The hotel was very calming, and was the perfect end to my holiday. The pool was very relaxing, and you could also borrow bikes to get around the city.
There were three main food groups that I ended up eating whilst in Austin. Austin is known for its tacos and quesos, you can almost get them on every street corner, each with their own spin on the fillings. I also had more BBQ and spicy chicken in Austin which was also amazing. By the end of the trip, I was desperate for some vegetables and . Terry Blacks – located near Barton Springs, Terry Black’s is renowned for its BBQ in Austin. The canteen style is a casual stop for pit-smoked meats and sides. It is the perfect place to visit after swimming in the Barton Springs. It was the most expensive BBQ joint that we visited but it was definitely worth it. Homeslice – not the same chain as the UK homeslice, but was just as delicious. You can sit by the countertop and enjoy a 20” pizza in style. Don’t skip the desserts either, they were the perfect end to the meal. Joann’s Fine Foods – based right next to Austin Motel, it is a lively diner-style cafe and cantina with a tex-mex menu. I went for brunch but I would recommend going any time of day. The food is refreshing and there are many options on the menu to choose from. Jo’s Coffee – sandwiches in between Austin Motel and Hotel San Jose, you shouldn’t miss out coming here for a coffee and a breakfast taco. It’s the perfect start to day, however if you go later in the day I would recommend getting a frose (*frozen rose). It will help you cool you down in the summer heat! Vera Cruz au Natural – based in multiple locations in Austin, this is another taco stop off that you should make time to visit. Set up by two sisters, the flavours are mouthwatering good. They have a hole-in-the-wall at the Line Hotel which is just off the Congress Bridge and around the corner from 6th street. The Shrimp taco was my favourite. Torchy’s – another chain, but has uncomplicated, amazing Taco’s. I actually came here twice for a quick bite, you can’t go wrong. For me, the best were Baja Shrimp, Green Chile Pork and the Trailer Park tacos. Tommy Want Wingy – located outside the Carpenter Hotel, Tommy Want Wingy is a spicy chicken food truck. I went for chicken tenders with a spicy pineapple sauce. They don’t joke around with their spice levels! Justines – I didn’t actually make it to Justine’s however it was on my list! It is french cuisine with an amazing ambience and as you can tell by their instagram there is a lot of fun to be had there. Amy’s Icecream – Opposite Austin Motel and Hotel San Jose, Amy’s ice cream has a queue outside no matter what time. They flavour list is extensive and their toppings are out of this world.
Austin style is very relaxed to match the hot climate. I spent the majority of my time during the day in a swimming costume, either relaxing by the hotel’s pools or in Barton Springs Creek. Otherwise I had on denim shorts, logo tee or a simple floaty dress. Protect your face from the strong sun with a cap or sunhat. For the evening, I would still be in shorts, however paired with a subtle evening top, fisherman sandals and a shoulder bag. There wasn’t a need for heels in Austin, but you might want to bring some if you were going to a smart restaurant.
Ask anyone who lives or has been to Austin, and they will tell you to go to Barton Springs Pool. The pool is fed from underground springs and is the perfect location to relax in the sun and swim. Instead of going to the pool, we hired canoes along the bank of the Colorado River and rowed to the mouth of the Barton Springs. This was such a magical experience, as we went down the river, we saw a multitude of turtles swimming alongside us as well as other fish and birds. Just at the mouth of the river, locals will group together on a sandband with their paddle boards, canoes and kayaks. Everyone is so friendly, they play music and can relax in the sun. You can also carry on down the mouth of the river to Barton Creek, where again you can find friendly locals. On either side of the river, you can find ropes that you can swing on, or you can find a little bay to moor up and go for a swim in the freshwater. At the South Congress Bridge, locals and tourists will come together to watch bat colonies take flight every night and sundown. It is beautiful to watch the bats fly out all together and in a synchronised dance. Most people watch from the bridge, but I watched it from below where you got front row seats. Vintage Shops – For me this was the best place to discover vintage shops and authentic leather shops for cowboy boots and hats. Here were some of my top picks across SoCo and East Austin: Feathers, Prototype, Noah Marion, Charm School Vintage,Prisma, Pavement. Nightlife spots: Continental Club is a must visit while you are in Austin. The establishment has been around since 1955 and you can see a range of music from rock, traditional country and blues and rockabilly. Whisler’s is on 6th Street, where you can get all kinds of handcrafted cocktails. If you want to go to a Honky Tonk in Austin, you should visit The White Horse, which has live country music every night, where you can watch or join in with some traditional country dancing. If you want to explore the city, you can go around looking at the famous graffiti around the city. Based in SoCo is the famous “I love you so much” mural, on the side of Jo’s Coffee. It’s usually busy, but as it’s so close to the Austin Motel and Hotel San Jose, you’ll definitely manage to find a photo opportunity.
My Final Thoughts, Highlights and Top Tips:
This trip felt like a once in a lifetime experience; every person we met was super friendly and helpful if we needed help. It was amazing to experience a different side to America that I hadn’t seen before. If you want to follow in my footsteps, the drives are long in each state but the views are breathtaking along the Mississippi river. These cities will remain a special place in my heart, and the memories will last a lifetime. I had one suitcase that lasted me three weeks, and I felt like the clothes I bought suited each place perfectly. I would dress for comfort, you won’t be needing heels unless they are on cowboy boots!
Next Up: A Fashion Editor’s Guide to Southern California—What to Eat, Shop and Pack
