If you subscribe to Walt Whitman’s view that the sea is a continual miracle, you aren’t alone. Poets, painters, philosophers, designers and overall romantics have been meditating on the mysteries of salt water for centuries, and we’re no closer to getting answers: Scientists estimate that to this day, 80 per cent of the ocean remains unexplored. So if it’s innately unknowable, then logic dictates that anything is possible, right? Sirens? Of course. Sea creatures? Definitely. Lost cities? We don’t see why not.
It’s this idea of whimsy and wonder that Tiffany & Co. explores in its Blue Book 2023 collection, Out of the Blue. Unveiled in New York City in April, the new designs dive deep into the archives of its legendary in-house designer Jean Schlumberger and reimagine what his marine masterpieces would look like today, in the era of Halle Bailey’s The Little Mermaid. With 71 pieces released this summer and 58 for the fall, the offering is a testament to Schlumberger’s legacy.
For those not in the know, Schlumberger changed the jewellery game. Initially finding fame working under Elsa Schiaparelli in the late ’30s and early ’40s, he was invited to join Tiffany & Co. as vice-president in 1956 at the age of 50. Under his tenure, the brand transformed, and Schlumberger’s legacy was defined by dynamic designs, colourful gemstones, unparalleled craftsmanship and his love of nature.
Photography courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
“When Nathalie Verdeille joined us [as chief artistic director of jewellery in 2021], she did a lot of homework on Schlumberger,” explains chief gemologist Victoria Reynolds. “When you look at his inspiration, it’s all about flora, fauna and the ocean.” Given that last year’s Blue Book was inspired by botanica, water was the natural next step. “We’re framing it as ‘He built the palace and we’re opening the windows,’” she continues. “We didn’t want to copy his work, but we felt we could add to it, make it more innovative and work with more gemstones.”
And they certainly did. Out of the Blue is a master class of artistry and technical wizardry. Earrings, rings, bracelets, brooches and necklaces have been transformed into seven marine-inspired themes — Shell, Coral, Jellyfish, Pisces, Starfish, Sea Star and Star Urchin — and feature exceedingly rare gemstones set in unexpected combinations. Example: A 21-carat black opal is encased in a cluster of diamonds, resembling a shell; the piece can be rearranged into four different designs.
The colour choices are also unexpected but purposefully so. “Because Blue Book 2023 was about the ocean, blues were clearly very important,” shares Reynolds. So to counter the cool tones, she and Verdeille added some warmth with unique gems like padparadscha sapphires. “Pink and orange sapphires are already very rare, so in order to find 100 padparadscha ones, I have to look at 1,000,” she adds.
Photography courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
The rarity of the untreated stones featured in Out of the Blue is a justified point of pride for the brand, as is the technical innovation. The Star Urchin necklace [above] especially marries the two as it features over 340 hand-carved chalcedony “spikes” that tremble thanks to unique spring mechanisms.
But the real crown jewel is the Jellyfish brooch. Inspired by Schlumberger’s La Méduse, the new design uses tanzanites, diamonds and cabochon moonstones to evoke the ethereal aesthetic of the invertebrate. Then, to make the tentacles appear as if they are dancing — a Schlumberger staple — artisans replicated the same hand engravings from La Méduse on the 18-karat yellow-gold spirals and added baguette sapphires for a little extra sparkle. “If you’d have gone to touch those tentacles and they didn’t move, you would’ve been disappointed,” laughs Reynolds.
Ultimately, she hopes that, like Whitman, the sea and Schlumberger inspire you. “I hope Out of the Blue brings joy to people,” Reynolds says. “This collection has a lot of love and passion behind it. I want you to feel that every stone was hand-picked for a reason and how integral Schlumberger’s legacy is to the brand. It’s unexpected, surprising and delightful, but it’s what makes the jewellery so good.”
This article first appeared in FASHION’s October 2023 issue. Find out more here.
The post Tiffany & Co. Goes Under the Sea for Its Latest High Jewellery Collection appeared first on FASHION Magazine.
